\n
On a bustling evening at New York\u2019s Contento, a restaurant celebrated for its globe-trotting fare and wine program, head sommelier Abe Zarate faces a challenge from diners eager to try a wine similar to the light, fruity profiles of Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. \u201cI have just the thing,\u201d Zarate says, excited to introduce a unique find. \u201cThis is a Mexican wine made from the Misi\u00f3n grape.\u201d<\/p>\n
He pours a vibrant red, sharing the epic tale of the grape, known as List\u00e1n Prieto in Spain. Its journey began in the arid plains of Castilla-La Mancha, moved to the Canary Islands, and finally across to the Americas. In Mexico, where it\u2019s known as Misi\u00f3n, List\u00e1n Prieto has sparked a renaissance among those keen to experience a piece of viticultural history.<\/p>\n
Growing up between Mexico and Texas, Zarate feels a deep connection to this grape, seeing parallels with his own cultural narrative of migration, adaptation, and reclamation. The variety offers a blend of novel and familiar flavors\u2014fruity and light with a rustic edge, positioned between Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Grenache. The wine Zarate pours is bright with summery red fruit\u2014easy drinking but generous on the palate, with a tart juiciness and subtle, earthy undertones.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s becoming more common to find a gemlike this in restaurants and wine bars. List\u00e1n Prieto is experiencing a revival in regions from Chile to California. This movement is not just about rediscovering a forgotten variety; it\u2019s about redefining viticultural values and challenging what consumers consider worthy of their glasses. Zarate\u2019s enthusiasm for sharing wines from the Americas, with deep historical roots, is inspired by the enduring stories these old vines can tell\u2014 \u201cstories of survival and resilience,\u201d he says. \u201cThey\u2019re living history.\u201d<\/p>\n\nLeft to right: Head sommelier Abe Zarate at Contento in New York City; a glass of Pa\u00eds Cerro La Trinchera 2022 Roberto Henr\u00edquez at Content. | Photos by Nico Schinco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFollowing Hern\u00e1n Cort\u00e9s\u2019 early 16th-century conquest, a profound cultural and agricultural transformation unfolded in Mexico, then known as New Spain. The introduction of Vitis vinifera, including the List\u00e1n Prieto grape, in the colonized areas signified the beginning of winemaking in the Americas. In 1524, as governor and captain-general of New Spain, Cort\u00e9s mandated that Spanish settlers plant vineyards to sustain their communities and fulfill the sacramental needs of the growing Catholic church. He decreed that 1,000 vine cuttings be planted annually for every 100 people in the colonized settlements. This order rapidly expanded viticulture across the colonial territory, making List\u00e1n Prieto, and later varieties like Muscat de Alexandria and Palomino, foundational to these early vineyards.<\/p>\n
As vineyard cultivation increased, the quality and volume of Mexican wine began to rival those of Spanish imports, posing an economic threat to the Spanish crown. In 1595, King Philip II restricted the establishment of new vineyards, ensuring the colonies remained reliant on Spanish wine. In 1699, King Charles II further limited local wine production to religious uses. Although these decrees significantly hampered the development of a local wine industry, the use of the Mission or Misi\u00f3n grape\u2014as List\u00e1n Prieto became known for its association with the Catholic church\u2014remained essential. It adapted well to central Mexico\u2019s high altitudes and varied climates, becoming integral to colonial agriculture.<\/p>\n
Over centuries, this grape was part of the evolution of Mexican winemaking, from its colonial origins to its modern renaissance. Today, regions such as Baja California, Coahuila, Guanajuato, and Quer\u00e9taro boast vibrant wine scenes led by a new generation of winemakers at establishments like Vi\u00f1as del Tigre, Palafox, Bichi Wines, and Bodegas de Santo Tom\u00e1s. These vintners, each working with the grape in some capacity, are innovating and redefining Mexico\u2019s viticultural identity.<\/p>\n
In the Guadalupe Valley, Bodegas de Santo Tom\u00e1s, established in 1888 by Dominican missionaries, stands as one of the region\u2019s oldest wineries. Located near Ensenada, close to the Pacific, the vineyards enjoy cool ocean breezes that temper the arid regional heat. Varieties grown include Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Chenin Blanc, but a historical section is dedicated to Misi\u00f3n. Dating back more than 130 years, the section was replanted in 2006 to continue producing the winery\u2019s \u201cMission Red.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s our entry-level wine because of its approachability,\u201d says Guillermo Tortoledo Lucero, international brand manager for Santo Tom\u00e1s. \u201cIt\u2019s light and easy, appealing to many of our customers, and perfect for enjoying on its own.\u201d Tortoledo Lucero also highlights the symbolic significance of the wine. \u201cSpeaking about the Misi\u00f3n grape means talking about the beginning of the Santo Tom\u00e1s Valley and our origins,\u201d he says. \u201cThe commitment to taking care of the vineyards of the original mission is an integral part of our history and legacy.\u201d<\/p>\n
Indeed, Mexico\u2019s wine history greatly influenced both North and South America. As Dale Ott, co-owner of Tucson-based Nossa Imports, sees it, it was foundational.\u00a0 \u201cMexico particularly fills out the global story of wine as the oldest \u2018New World\u2019 wine-growing region, with List\u00e1n Prieto as the cornerstone,\u201d says Ott. She and her husband, Stephen, are sommeliers-turned-importers passionate about spotlighting Mexican and Portuguese wine regions.\u00a0\u201cWhen we delved into Mexican wines a decade ago, we were surprised by how little was known about this history,\u201d Ott notes.<\/p>\n
Today, List\u00e1n Prieto symbolizes Mexican viticultural resilience and innovation, forging a unique wine legacy spanning more than four centuries. As the grape journeyed through the Americas, it moved northward with Spanish missionaries and settlers. By 1629, this hearty vine had taken root in what is now the United States, notably in New Mexico\u2019s Rio Grande Valley and near modern-day El Paso, Texas.<\/p>\nHead agronomist Antonio Bara and head enologist Cristina Pino examining Misi\u00f3n grapes for Bodegas de Santo Tom\u00e1s in Mexico\u2019s Guadalupe Valley. | Photo courtesy of Bodegas de Santo Tomas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nNew Mexico is poised to celebrate 400 years of viticultural history. Although the Mission grape is no longer a primary focus, with only a few acres planted, it continues to be recognized for its historical significance. Among its proponents is Richard McDonald, a winemaker and owner-partner at Rio Grande Winery in Las Cruces, who sources Mission grapes from Tularosa Vineyards. Here the grapes thrive, suited to New Mexico\u2019s climate and resistant to mildew and disease thanks to their loose bunch formation.<\/p>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s an easy grape to work with,\u201d McDonald says. \u201cIt ferments like a dream, producing a light, easy-drinking wine with good acidity, ideal for pairing with local cuisine, Tex-Mex, and barbecue.\u201d<\/p>\n
His fascination with the grape\u2019s adaptability to the hot, arid conditions of the Rio Grande Valley has led him to take a proactive step\u2014planting estate vines. He hopes this will be the first step in revitalizing the heritage grape in the region, to further understanding and promote its potential.<\/p>\n
Though New Mexico technically saw the birth of its viticultural heritage more than 100 years before the Spanish missions would bring it to California, the dominance of California\u2019s modern wine industry has allowed a great degree of exploration in diverse grape varieties. In recent years, the Mission grape has experienced a resurgence in the state, valued by artisan wineries like Story Wines, Harrington Wines, and Sandlands Vineyards for its historical significance and unique flavor profile.<\/p>\n
During the pandemic, California winemaker Rajat Parr deepened his interest in farming by founding Phelan Farm near Cambria, in San Luis Obispo County. Inspired by a trip to the Canary Islands, Parr consulted Tegan Passalacqua of Sandlands Vineyards to locate ancient Mission vines planted in 1854 at Deaver Ranch in Amador County. \u201cThese may be someof North America\u2019s oldest producing Mission vineyards,\u201d says Parr.<\/p>\n
Parr also ventured to revive a neglected vineyard in Temecula, planted in the late 1800s at an old site called Moon Ranch on a Pechanga Band of Indians reservation. This site revealed Mission vines and natural hybrids, offering unique viticultural opportunities. Harvesting the vineyard involves unique challenges, particularly timing the harvest to outpace local fauna. \u201cWe have to pick before the coyotes eat the grapes,\u201d Parr explains.<\/p>\n\nRajat Parr in a vineyard he\u2019s working to revive in Temecula, California, first planted in the late 1800s. | Photos by Gary Allard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIn Argentina, Malbec has long been the star. But over the past decade, Criolla grape varieties\u2014initially introduced by the Spanish in the 16th century and evolving through numerous hybrids and mutations\u2014have come to represent a significant part of the country\u2019s viticultural heritage. A comprehensive decade-long study by the Instituto Nacional de Tecnolog\u00eda Agropecuaria (INTA) and other academic bodies revealed the diversity of these historic grapes, identifying about 49 distinct Criolla varieties, including 34 previously unknown. They include Torront\u00e9s, a popular aromatic white grape; Criolla Grande, widely used for bulk wine; and Criolla Chica, another alias for List\u00e1n Prieto.<\/p>\n
Leading producers like Catena Zapata, Durigutti, Passionate Wine, and Sebasti\u00e1n Zuccardi of Zuccardi Family Wines are showcasing the potential of these varieties to appeal to a global market seeking unique and climate-resilient wines. Sebasti\u00e1n Zuccardi, in collaboration with Marcela Manini, Nuria A\u00f1\u00f3 Gargiulo, and Pancho Bugallo, launched the Cara Sur brand in 2013 in Calingasta Valley, north of Mendoza, to preserve Criolla Chica\u2019s history.<\/p>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s important to recognize the deep history of viticulture in Argentina that predates the popularization of French grape varieties,\u201d Zuccardi says. \u201cUnderstanding Criolla Chica\u2019s origins is vital, as it forms an integral part of our viticultural identity.\u201d<\/p>\n
Zuccardi\u2019s team has dedicated the past decade to rejuvenating old vineyards and studying Criolla Chica\u2019s adaptability. He is optimistic about the potential of these grapes, especially in areas less suited to Malbec. \u201cI have been amazed at the quality Criolla Chicacan produce,\u201d says Zuccardi. \u201cThe current market desires wines with less concentration and alcohol, favoring lighter, more drinkable varieties. This has paved the way for grapes like Criolla Chica to make a comeback.\u201d<\/p>\n\nCara Sur\u2019s Criolla Chica grapes. | Photo by Federico Garc\u00eda; Sebasti\u00e1n Zuccardi, a partner at Cara Sur in Argentina. | Photo courtesy of Zuccardi Wines<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWest of the Andes, in Chile, List\u00e1n Prieto, known locally as Pa\u00eds, has become a standard fixture on wine lists in Santiago, and bottles are increasingly entering the export market. Chile\u2019s modern viticultural landscape has been dominated by French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carm\u00e9n\u00e8re, similar to Argentina\u2019s focus on Malbec and long overshadowing the story of Pa\u00eds. But a dedicated group of vintners has committed to preserving heritage vines such as Pa\u00eds, and the grape has been found in old vineyards stretching far south along the Pacific coastline, from the cooler regions of B\u00edo B\u00edo Valley and south-central Itata, as well as in the warmer region of Maule.<\/p>\n
South of Santiago, the De Martino family owns vineyards in both the Maipo Valley and Itata Valley, where they have revived several Carignan and Pa\u00eds vineyards dating back more than 70 and 150 years, respectively. Sebasti\u00e1n De Martino and his brother, Marco Antonio, view discovering these old vineyards as uncovering buried treasure, an opportunity to reconnect with the Spanish history of South American viticulture. \u201cThese vines represent a part of our past that we have to preserve,\u201d says Sebasti\u00e1n De Martino, whose single-vineyard Pa\u00eds is aptly named \u201cLas Olvidadas\u201d or \u2018The Forgotten.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n
He attributes the longevity of these vineyards to the cooler coastal climate and abundant rain of the Itata vineyards, noting that these robust, disease-resistant vines produce exceptional wine\u2014vibrant with red fruit character but elegant in structure. As with other descriptions of List\u00e1n Prieto and its many aliases, these wines hover in likeness to Beaujolais, Pinot Noir, and even lighter styles of Grenache. De Martino likes to suggest another similarity: \u201cI think good Pa\u00eds has the potential to make top quality wines like Barolo,\u201d he says. \u201cWe just need more time to understand it.\u201d<\/p>\n
De Martino isn\u2019t the only Pa\u00eds evangelist. Others like Leonardo Erazo, Roberto Henr\u00edquez Ascencio, Pedro Parra, and Spain-based Miguel Torres are also champions of the grape. At Miguel Torres\u2019 Chile winery, winemaker Eduardo Jord\u00e1n is a staunch advocate. \u201cTo reestablish Pa\u00eds as one of the most important varieties in the history of Chilean wine, it is important to know it well and to respect its main characteristics that have made it the variety with the longest existence in our country\u2014almost 500 years,\u201d explains Jord\u00e1n. A standout is the Miguel Torres Millapoa Pa\u00eds, produced from 150-year-old vines grown on basaltic sands and granitic soils near the B\u00edo B\u00edo River. \u201cPa\u00eds can show different faces depending on where it is grown, but typically its wines have low or moderate alcohol content, low natural acidity, rustic tannins, and often a lighter color,\u201d says Jord\u00e1n. \u201cThese are integral parts of the grape\u2019s DNA.\u201d<\/p>\n
The resurgence of List\u00e1n Prieto offers significant benefits to winemakers in the Americas, particularly its disease resistance and drought tolerance, making it ideal for regions like the southwestern United States and Baja California. This hardy, vigorous grape sustains long-lived vines, presenting a sustainable option for winemakers in unstable climates. And the wines themselves are gaining renewed appreciation for their distinctive taste and quality.<\/p>\n\n\u00a0Eduardo Jord\u00e1n, winemaker for Miguel Torres Chile; a Pa\u00ecs vineyard at Miguel Torres in Chile\u2019s Itata Valle | Photos courtesy of Miguel Torres Chile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nHowever, the grape faces hurdles that impede wider acceptance. The myriad of aliases for List\u00e1n Prieto across the Americas creates confusion, complicating its market recognition. Consumers often look for familiar names like Napa Cab or Bordeaux, and aligning the various regional identities under the List\u00e1n Prieto name is challenging.<\/p>\n
What the grape does have is a story\u2014one of adaptability and the enduring power of viticultural heritage. Its journey serves as an inspiration to those like sommelier Abe Zarate, who are passionate about sharing the rich tapestry of wine history with others. By embracing the potential of this remarkable grape and its regional expressions, winemakers not only honor its past but pave the way for a future where lesser-known varieties can thrive. With each pour of Misi\u00f3n, Pa\u00eds, or Criolla Chica, Zarate and others continue the journey of List\u00e1n Prieto. \u201cIt\u2019s more than just a wine,\u201d Zarate says. \u201cIt\u2019s a story of resilience and history.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n